Slim Fit Raglan SAL – Pattern Mashing


Welcome to my first official sew along post! Here’s a quick list of all the previous posts, so you can get caught up.

Kelly will be showcasing the overall construction, going into amazing detail that will help you produce a finished garment you can be super proud of. Meanwhile, I’ll be using the Raglan Add-on Pack (good for the Slim Rit and Regular Raglans), and hacking and mashing patterns and generally flying by the seat of my pants. The two patterns I plan to mash with the Raglan are the Free Spirit Tank, and the Men’s Henley. But the methods I’ll be showing will work with any combination of patterns and I hope you’ll be inspired to create your own unique looks!

The Stitch Hoodie – Men’s Henley / Relaxed Raglan

Not going to lie, I’m completely cheating here. I want to create a men’s hoodie with raglan style sleeves, but I don’t own such a pattern. Now, I know that there are lots of such patterns out there, I just down own one, and at the moment I don’t want to buy one. I have these two though, and like them both. So… pattern mashing! I’ll be taking the upper bodice/sleeves from the Relaxed Raglan and adding it to the lower body of the Men’s Henley.

Personally, I keep my paper patterns as master sheets and use dollar store tracing paper to trace out the pattern sizes I need. This makes grading patterns easy (and let’s face it, very few people fit just one size), as well as hacking. Because I can always refer back to the unaltered master sheet.

The Franken Dress – Free Spirit Tank/Slim-Fit Raglan + Cold Shoulder, Flared Sleeves + Boundless construction

My Pinsperation

I’ve spent a fair bit of time looking through the line drawings of the P4P patterns. Each one comes with several options and they’re designed to work together. Now, when I see a RTW (ready to wear aka store-bought) garment, a lot of the times I can break the construction apart in my head and assign it to one of the many P4P patterns in my arsenal. So, let’s take a look at the inspiration photo.

First thing I notice is the raglan sleeves. Yes, they’re missing a chunk out of them, but the sleeve connects to the neckband, so I know I’ll be going raglan. If I wanted to create a more exact replica of this shirt, I’d probably stick with the Relaxed Raglan, slashing and spreading the pattern out and then gathering it a little to get that draped look. But, I know for me and my shape, it’ll wind up looking like a tent, which is not the silhouette I want. Enter the Free Spirit Tank. It has the loose, comfortable drape around the stomach and a bit of definition in the waist and fitting across the bust. Lastly, the fabric I want to use for this garment is see-through. I could just make it as is, pairing it with long tanks underneath it, but I kind of want it to be a complete piece. So I’ll be lining it in a similar way to the Boundless (another dress from P4P). ** You don’t need the Boundless dress for this mash, it simply gave me an idea for the construction.

The bottom line with replicating things you find pictures of is to familiarize yourself with the patterns that are out there. As I mentioned, I like the line drawings for this because it’s the simplest version. It lets me see the shape, the basic construction, etc without fit and fabric getting in the way. P4P is my favorite pattern line for doing this, because each of their patterns has so many variations it’s rare I can’t find a base for what.

Onto the Mashing!

Alright, first things first. This is my very first sew along, and I probably didn’t take as many pictures of the process as I should have, lol. So I apologize in advance. If you have any questions at all about these mashes, or other related issues with the patterns, please don’t hesitate to drop a comment on this post or reach out to me on Facebook. Plus, sometimes it was difficult to take photos as I want to be respectful of P4P and Judy and not post pics of whole pattern pieces, so forgive me <3

Starting with the Men’s Henley, I traced the front and back pieces. When it came to the armscythe, I used dots to mark on the paper where the line was, for reference, but didn’t want to confuse it later when I was cutting it out. Then I overlaid the pieces onto the Slim Fit Raglan (SFR) pattern. I like to use the bottom of the armscythe to match things up when doing mashes like this, because it leaves the bodice fitting the way I want, and lets me alter the sleeve and neckline as I see fit.

Using my friend’s measurements I determined which SFR he would fit into. I placed the traced pattern over the master sheet, and drew in the arms and neck. Repeat for the front and back.

I’d completely forgotten to take a picture of this step (genius I know). So I am showing the already cut out pattern piece on top of the master sheet here. (forgive the spots where the Sharpie has bled through the tracing paper onto the pattern). See how the sleeve cut line matches up, but the pattern drops straight down instead of curving in like the SFR does.

Now we trace the sleeve pattern for the corresponding size raglan. The rest of the construction for the hoodie will be the same as sewing the SFR (slim fit raglan), and I’ll be showing in a later blog how I like to do kangaroo pockets and attach the hood.

We’re going to use pretty much the same technique to combine the SFR with the FST (free spirit tank) and this time I remembered to take a picture so hopefully that will clear things up a bit. However this time I started with the SFR, tracing out the armscythes and using dots to show where the bodice is. Overlaying that onto the FST I drew in the rest of the pattern.

Forgive the purple pattern, it was the only paper I had when I printed out the FST pattern.

We’ll cover the sleeves in a separate post as they aren’t so much mashed as hacked!

That’s it for the first day of our hacking and mashing. Hopefully I explained it alright, as I said it’s my first time guest-hosting a Sew Along! Please drop any questions into the comments, email me or poke me on Facebook and I’ll help as much as I can 😀

Watch for Kelly’s post tomorrow covering how to do the neckline triangle patch and elbow patches! And then on the 18th I’ll be showing the sleeves and construction for the Frankendress!

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