I have a confession to make. The boho dress sleeves and I have had a misunderstanding. Overall the construction is sound, but I’m just not feeling the way it looks on me. I have a solution in mind, so I will be posting that. But in the meantime I have woe-fully not posted on this SAL because
avoidance is next to godli- No, that’s not right. I’ve just been avoiding it. That’s what. So, that’s a thing. Anyway, in the meantime, let’s finish up the Men’s Hoodie.
Over on Kelly’s Blog she has done an amazing job of showcasing the construction of the SFR. So today I’ll just be touching on the hood and the kangaroo pocket.
The best time to do the pocket is before any of the assembly has been started. Don’t be like me on other projects and decide once it’s all finished and done, band and everything, that you want a pocket on it. Just… trust me, don’t do it. So, knowing that we want a pocket on it, mark the halfway point on the bottom of your front piece, and on the pocket.
Now we’re gonna hem the pocket. For this, I love hem tape. I think I use Dritz, I forget. It’s wash away tape I got on Amazon and I love it. I put the tape on the hoodie pocket, then top stitch it down.
Once that’s done, it’s back to the hemtape for the top seam. Press 1/4″ fold, and apply hemtape to the seam part shown here:
That will hold the top of the pocket onto the garment. Using the bottom notches at the midpoint as a guide, place the pocket onto the front of the shirt and clip the bottom seam.
Sew the top down with a topstitch of your choice, then baste the bottom to keep it in place. When the band is put on the hoodie the bottom of the pocket will be included in that seam, holding it down.
Now for the hoodie! Personally, I really like lined hoodies. I like the weight of it, and the chance to use two different fabrics for an added pop. Sew the lining and hood separately, then, right sides together, sew them together. It’s important to note here, make sure you’re not using the bottom of the hood (that attaches to the shirt). I can’t tell you how many times I have done that. It’s a lot.
Grade that seam you just sewed. By that I mean, cut the seam allowance of the lining fabric close to the stitch line, with the hood fabric seam allowance being left longer. This helps the lining fabric nestle inside and the hood fabric to roll over it a little bit, giving a nicely finished look to the garment.
Turn inside out so your right sides are showing now and press, clip and topstitch if desired.
I attached the hood by putting right sides together, sewing, then top stitching the seam allowance down. This matches the top stitching done along the raglan sleeves as well and gives it a nice look. Then, just attach the band, and voila! Hoodie! Apologies for the lack of model showing the finished garment, the recipient is in the military 🙂